Jewellery StyleMother of Pearl Returns
Mother of Pearl is special. Its qualities have endeared it to jewellery makers, designers of all ilks and material engineers at the cutting edge of their profession.
It possesses the iridescence of the Pearl, is relatively easy to cut, can be dyed or bleached, and is so fracture resistant that as Professor Gilbert put it “You can go over it with a truck and not break it.”
Download ‘The Evolve Issue’ to see my full research article about Mother of Pearl
While not a gemstone, in many ways, MOP (as it is commonly abbreviated) is as popular as any semi-precious gemstone. Its story is very similar to that of the Pearl in that it started out as a material used exclusively by royalty in Europe, Asia and the Orient. Yet today, MOP buttons and costume jewellery are fairly commonplace.
That Mother of Pearl is now more accessible has done little to diminish its charm. Infact. this dreamy shell material has been enjoying a renaissance. For the past few years, accessory designers have produced a steady stream of extraordinary creations made with Mother of Pearl.
Roughly a year ago, I accidentally discovered the fabulous Minaudieres of Rafe New York. This designer fits his haute box clutches with geometric inlays of Mother of Pearl. Luxurious, unique and with the subtle glow of MOP, Rafe’s creations are irresistible.
In the world of jewellery design, Viktoria Hayman stands out for her stunning MOP creations. Mother of Pearl is obtained from the shell of Pearl forming Oysters and Mussels. As you can imagine, it comes with natural curves and dents. Through relatively easy to cut (MOP has a hardness of 3.5 on the Moh’s scale, READ MORE), designers often find it rewarding to work with its natural curves because this means they’ll have more material at their disposal.
Download ‘The Evolve Issue’ to see my full research article about Mother of Pearl
Many of Viktoria Hayman’s MOP creations have very organic curves, which probably shows that she worked around the natural curves of her material. With rounded and freeform shapes, her necklaces in particular have a very striking aesthetic.
The world of watch design provides the best example yet of the resurgence of Mother of Pearl. Dials made of Mother of Pearl are all the rage. The likes of Omega, Louis Vuitton, Chopard and Rolex have used Mother of Pearl dials to give their wrist watches unique flare and beauty.
Wristwatches with MOP dials have an alluring dynamism. The pearly iridescence of MOP means that colours and tints seem to undulate on their surface as the wearer moves or indeed, as the viewer moves. It is a lovely touch that’s proving as popular for men’s watches as it is for women’s.
Here is a selection of some wristwatches made fabulous by their MOP dials.
** 1 **
GRANDE MAISON WATCH, FERRAGAMO
The dials of watches in Ferragamo’s Grande Maison collection feature colourful Mother of Pearl mosaics. This particular one is an iridescent mix of gray, taupe and brown. The nacre was probably dyed to achieve this lovely mix of colours. Amazingly, neither dying nor bleaching affect the iridescence of Mother of Pearl.
** 2 **
CERAMIC BANGLE WATCH, ANNE KLEIN
This timepiece exudes feminine charm. Its pastel pink and gold rim are a very lovely combination. The center of its charm however, is its white Mother of Pearl dial. It has a silky, wavy shimmer that is gentle and very luxurious. It’s the kind of watch that easily becomes a beloved daily accessory.
Download ‘The Evolve Issue’ to see my full research article about Mother of Pearl
** 3 **
CYPRIS WATCH, BOUCHERON
This is a gorgeous example of the level of detail and artistry many design houses put into their signature timepieces. This Boucheron Cypris watch features a Mother of Pearl dial on which an elegant swan is captured in motion. It is distinctive and yes, very beautiful.
** 4 **
SQUARE WATCH, KATE SPADE
This Kate Spade watch with Mother of Pearl dial has a classic charm. Not too long ago, square was the ‘it’ shape for watches. While big, round faces are trending globally, this timepiece is a nostalgic reminder of what we love about square-face watches. Here, the Mother of Pearl dial is a subtle detail that will no doubt delight its wearer with unexpected flashes of colour.
** 5 **
MINT D’ARCY WATCH, MICHAEL KORS
Michael Kors accessories have been big for the past 2 years. This one in particular is absolutely lovely. Mint and Gold is a winsome colour palette and clearly, this is a winner. The most captivating thing about this watch is its mint Mother of Pearl dial. Here we see there’s no limit to how this iridescent material can be dyed.
** 6 **
THE OLIVIA POPE MOVADO WATCH
The show ‘Scandal’ is a hit and Olivia Pope, played masterfully by Kerry Washington, has become a style icon. This is the Olivia Pope Movado watch as seen on the show many times. It has the unmistakable minimalist charm of Movado watches with a nice helping of luxurious, silvery shine thanks to Mother of Pearl.
Download ‘The Evolve Issue’ to see my full research article about Mother of Pearl
** 7 **
THE MONTEREY WATCH, KATE SPADE
White and silver Mother of Pearl are popular for their classic colours. Here we see the Kate Spade Monterey watch which has a pristine Mother of Pearl dial nicely framed by a halo of round diamonds. It is simple, effortlessly elegant and high on shimmer and sparkle.
** 8 **
MINI D DE DIOR WATCHES
Inspired by the softness of satin ribbons, these watches designed for Dior by Victoire de Castellane look delicate and luxurious. Mother of Pearl dials are simply perfect for this design. Nothing evokes the softness and shine of satin much like MOP does. [READ MORE]
** 9 **
THE CONSTELLATION WATCH, SKAGEN
The black Mother of Pearl Mosaic of this watch by Skagen is reminiscent of Ferragamo’s Grande Maison collection ( see above ). It is unique in its own way. Not only does it feature darker MOP, it also has a distinctive sprinkling of crystals that mimic a constellation of stars. With its plain gold bezel, that dial makes this a very unique timepiece.
** 10 **
JARDIN DU PALAIS WATCH, MAUBOUSSIN
Last but not least is this timepiece by Mauboussin. Its contrast of black and silvery stainless steel is very striking. The best thing about it has to be its black Mother of Pearl dial. It’s actually a very clever way of adding colour to the design. The Jardin du Palais is a very beautiful watch that easily appeals to any of the sexes.
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